中國冒起，勢頭已成，但中美雙方你中有我，短期關係，乍暖還寒。寫此文時，美國財長訪華，吃過幾餐川粵京菜，即在小紅書加分不少。
中國人民以食為天，老美 Maslow hierarchy of needs 也將食定為 basic need。習近平吃慶豐包子，彭定康啖泰昌蛋撻，皆顯貼地，體察平民。但在英美民粹社會，政治人物如飲食fine dining，後果難料。法國則例外，密特朗敢吃歐盟禁捕的圃鵐（ortolan），反而是美談。
普天之下，莫非皇土，但皇帝不被期許有私生活，喜書法、木工的宋徽宗、明熹宗皆遺臭萬年，因此，識食的皇帝甚少。武則天被連繫到洛陽水席，每道菜都多湯多汁，但據名食家方曉嵐意見，洛陽水席甚「水皮」。清太祖努爾哈赤僅盤踞東北，關外苦寒，酸菜白肉鍋已是極品，要到乾隆下江南，才見識淮陽菜細緻，使我們有幸吃現在的仿膳，例如鰣魚。
中原指黃河流域華中地帶，逐鹿中原是self-actualization的高層次慾望；相反華東、兩廣化外之地山高皇帝遠，農水產遠勝中原，講究口腹之低層次慾望。故此，識飲識食的地方官倒不少。
孔子被稱萬世師表，儒家又崇尚忠君，惠及子孫，歷代封爵，加上近北京，不時迎迓皇帝出巡，所以，孔府菜乃高檔魯系官府菜，名品有食材高檔的壽字高湯官燕、功夫菜鍋塌豆腐、賣相精美銀芽釀火腿茸⋯反映食不厭精，膾不厭細，不時不食等哲學。House wine 是濃香型孔府家酒。
中國共產黨信奉無產階級革命，烈士瞿秋白死前記掛小蔥燒豆腐而已，成功的毛澤東常啃辣椒，出巡只逛火宮殿小吃攤，才遊長江水，又食武昌魚，生日吃碗紅燒肉，開國大典就痛飲八大名酒之汾酒。每逢外交場合，茲事國體，主力奉精巧又各方接受的淮陽菜，文革全國瘋，打倒一切牛鬼蛇神，獲保護的專家為造原子彈的和煮國宴的，尼克遜訪華破冰，周恩來還拿得出三絲魚翅、西湖醋魚；上國酒茅台，因長征紅軍成功四渡貴州赤水河，不致變另一個革命先烈石達開。
鄧小平改革開放後，由治及興，吃好喝好，是生活改善表現，楊貫一為鄧小平煮阿一鮑魚，見證中華人民共和國走資。江澤民入住海逸酒店，揚州人從來識小資生活，早餐有燕窩。紅酒漸上中國人餐桌，胡錦濤訪法，去女中豪傑的 Chateau Margaux，乎合鄧小平給他評語 ——綿裡藏針。
香港允許或鼓勵商人治港，人所共知，唐英年愛品紅，紅酒要小心貯存，他以身作則，為了蓋酒窖，特首寶座也丟了。貿發局主席林建岳試過坐私人飛機，去大馬食忘不了。上有好者，下必甚焉，公務員高官，也於皇朝會，被款待天價火鍋⋯⋯竊以為，香港最貴重的「茶垢」（李瑞環語）是法治，款待合法，天價也不應詬病，至於大眾想法，因非「行動」，政府不管，也管不了！
The rise of China has gathered momentum, but the Sino-U.S. relationship remains deeply intertwined, characterized by a short-term dynamic that is fleeting and unpredictable. As I write this, the U.S. Treasury Secretary is visiting China and has enjoyed several meals of Sichuan, Cantonese, and Beijing cuisine. Her culinary experiences, which have gone viral on Xiaohongshu, have earned her warm compliments from the netizens.
The Chinese people regard food as a fundamental aspect of life. Similarly, in Maslow’s hierarchy of needs, food is classified as a basic need. President Xi Jinping eating Qingfeng steamed buns and Chris Patten savouring Tai Cheong egg tarts both demonstrate a down-to-earth approach and an understanding of the grassroots. However, in the populist societies of the U.K. and the U.S., politicians who indulge in fine dining may face unpredictable consequences. France is an exception; Mitterrand dared to eat the ortolan, a bird banned by the European Union, which is, in fact, considered a delightful tale.
Beneath the heavens, all lands belong to the emperor, but emperors are not expected to have private lives. Emperors Song Huizong and Ming Xizong, who enjoyed calligraphy and carpentry, both were subjected to lasting infamy. Therefore, emperors with a refined palate are rare. Empress Wu Zetian was associated with the Luoyang Water Banquet, where every dish is rich in soup and sauce. However, according to renowned gourmet Fang Xiaolan, the Luoyang Water Banquet was rather “lacking in substance”. Nurhaci, the first emperor of the region Qing dynasty, stayed in the Northeast, where the harsh conditions outside the border made pickled cabbage and pork hotpot a delicacy. It was not until Qianlong’s southern tours that he experienced the refined Huaiyang cuisine, which allows us to enjoy modern imitations like shad fish.
The Central Plains of China referred to the region along the Yellow River, where the pursuit of the throne in the Central Plains represented a high-level desire for self-actualization. In contrast, East China and the two provinces, Guangdong and Guangxi, which were considered remote areas where the influence of the emperor was minimal due to the great distance, boasted superior agricultural and aquatic products compared to the Central Plains, catering to low-level desires of gustatory sensation. Thus, there were quite a few local officials who were connoisseurs of food and beverages.
Confucius is hailed as the teacher of all ages, and Confucianism advocates loyalty to the emperor and benefits for descendants. The Kong family was granted noble titles for dynasties, and due to its proximity to Beijing, it often received the emperor on his imperial tours. Hence, Confucius Mansion cuisine is a high-end variety of Shandong cuisine, featuring delicacies like the luxurious “Shou” (longevity) broth with swallow’s nest, skilful dishes like “Guo Ta” (braised) tofu, and visually appealing dishes like bean sprouts stuffed with minced ham, reflecting culinary philosophies of refinement and seasonality. The house wine is a richly fragrant Kong Family liquor.
The Chinese Communist Party believes in proletarian revolution. Martyr Qu Qiubai longed only for scallion tofu before his execution. The successful Mao Zedong often munched chili peppers and visited humble eateries like Huogongdian when touring. After swimming in the Yangtze River, he savoured Wuchang fish. He celebrated birthdays with red-braised pork, and drank Fen liquor, one of the Eight Great Spirits, only during the founding ceremony of the People’s Republic of China. On diplomatic occasions, where national prestige is at stake, Huaiyang cuisine, known for its delicate flavours and broad acceptance, is often served. During the Great Proletarian Cultural Revolution, while all “demons and monsters” were being overthrown, only experts who crafted atomic bombs and those who cooked state banquets were protected. When Nixon visited China to restore relations, Zhou Enlai still managed to serve delicacies such as three-shredded shark fin and West Lake vinegar fish, along with the national liquor, Maotai. Why is Maotai national liquor? Thanks to the successful crossings of the Chishui River by the Red Army during the Long March, they avoided the tragic fate of revolutionary martyr Shi Dakai.
After Deng Xiaoping’s reform and opening up, China emerged from stability to greater prosperity, with improved living standards marked by good food and beverages. Yeung Koon-yat, once cooked for Deng with his Ah Yat Abalone, symbolized the transition of the People’s Republic of China moving towards to a market economy. When Jiang Zemin stayed at the Harbour Plaza Hotel, the native of Yangzhou always appreciated a refined lifestyle and had bird’s nest soup for breakfast. Red wine gradually appeared on Chinese dining tables. During Hu Jintao‘s visit to France, he went to the esteemed feminine Chateau Margaux, befitting Deng Xiaoping’s description of him as a “needle hidden in silk floss.” (an iron fist in a velvet glove)
Hong Kong allows or encourages businessmen to rule Hong Kong. It’s a well-known fact that Henry Tang loves red wine, which requires careful storage. Tang set an example by losing the Chief Executive position for building a wine cellar. The Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) Chairman, Peter Lam, once took a private jet to Malaysia for an unforgettable fish meal. When those at the top indulge, those below follow suit, with high-ranking civil servants and officials treated to high-priced hotpots at the Dynasty Club. In my humble opinion, Hong Kong’s most precious “tea stain” (a metaphor used by Li Ruihuan) is the rule of law. If hospitality is legal, it should not be condemned even with a high price. As for public opinion, since it’s not an “action”, the government doesn’t intervene, and it can’t.
英譯：梁雅穎Agatha Leung | 圖：網上圖片
